Juan David Latorre
After seeing the beauty and splendour of the capital Budapest, we suggest taking the western route to enjoy the history and beauty of Győr and Sopron, the city of Szombathely, the deep spa town of Héviz, by Lake Balaton, and ending in what next year will be one of the three Cultural Capitals of Europe 2023, the town of Veszprém.
Győr
Győr is known as the City of Rivers, as the Rába, Rábca and Mosoni-Duna (a branch of the Danube) meet here. A visit to the Bishop’s Palace Tower (“Püspökivár Torony” in Hungarian), which is located about 500 metres from the central square of the city, on one side of the Danube River, is a must. In June 2004, a permanent exhibition was opened about Bishop Vilmos Apor, who was tortured by Russian soldiers in 1945 in the basement beneath the castle and who protected at the cost of his life the women and children who sought refuge in his palace from the occupying troops. He died a few days later from the wounds inflicted on him. A statue in his honour greets the visitor at the entrance to the palace.
If you climb to the top of this tower you can enjoy one of the best views of the entire city. Directly opposite is the tower of Győr Cathedral, built around the year 1000 by St. Stephen. The paintings of the Virgin Mary decorating the baroque altar in the nave of the north wing made the church one of the most prominent pilgrimage sites in Hungary. According to legend, this icon, brought by the Irish bishop Walter Lynch in 1655, wept tears of blood on St. Patrick’s Day 1697.
Impressive is the Ark of the Covenant, the most beautiful baroque statue in the city, sculpted in 1731 by Antonio Corradini and designed by Joseph Emanuel Fischer von Erlach. The monument shows two angels holding the Ark in their hands. The work was created on the very spot where Habsburg soldiers knocked the monstrance out of the priest’s hands during the Corpus Christi procession of 1727, while pursuing a deserter and adulterer who had taken refuge in the crowd.
Another of Győr’s must-see sights is its neo-baroque Town Hall (1896-1898), designed by the architect Jenő Hübner. 85 m long and 40 m wide, it was built in a U-shape with two storeys. The coat of arms of the city can be seen on the façade.
Benedictine Abbey of Pannonhalma
The Benedictine Abbey of Pannonhalma has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. Founded in 996, the monastery of the Benedictine order is as old as the Hungarian state. Its millennia-old history can be discovered through the various architectural styles, while tourists can enjoy learning about the various activities of the monks.
A stroll through the lavender-scented arboretum and enjoy the majestic silence of the basilica and immerse yourself in the 400,000-volume collection of the library is a must. The abbey’s hard-working monks who still live there make excellent wine, which is a must-try, as are the dishes made from local ingredients in the abbey’s restaurant.
Esterházy Palace of Fertőd
Because of their imperial history, palaces abound throughout Hungary. But on this journey through western Hungary, the Esterházy Palace in Fertőd stands out. Passing through the palace’s main entrance with three gates, the visitor enters the fascinating world of 18th century Baroque. The ornamental courtyard surrounded by the castle wings provides a wonderful backdrop for photos, with its richly carved fountains, the lawn adorned with thousands of flowers and the decorative staircase adorned with cherubs. The Esterházy family had no less than 126 rooms in this magnificent building. Dozens of classical and pop music concerts preserve the traditions of the palace; Joseph Haydn himself was once a court composer.
Sopron
Situated just a short distance from the Austrian border, Sopron is nicknamed “The Faithful City”, in memory of the result of the 1921 referendum in which its inhabitants decided to become part of Hungary. It’s comforting and dazzling to visit its old town along the city wall promenade and then lose yourself in the maze of winding streets that lead between the baroque houses. If you head for Tűztorony, the 58-metre-high Fire Tower (also called the Fire Tower), the symbol of the city, will soon appear on Főtér, the Main Square. The top of the tower, rebuilt in 1680, offers a magnificent view, not only of the city centre, but also of the Lővérek, a hillside dotted with villas. In the centre of the square stands the oldest statue of the Holy Trinity in Hungary. The imposing Goat Church was built by the Franciscans in 1280 and owes its name to a strange story about a goat. According to the story, the construction of the church was paid for with buried treasure discovered by a grazing goat. On one of the church’s pillars is an image of an angel holding a goat. The monastery is famous for its chapter house, considered the most beautiful piece of Gothic architecture in the country, and is located at the end of the square.
Sopron has a textile industry based on linen cultivation, and characteristic of this area is the use of the blue dyeing technique. It is worth noting that this area of western Hungary is home to an indigenous breed of superior quality meat, the Mangalica pig, which is said to be comparable to the Iberian pig.
Szombathely
Close to the Austrian border is the town of Szombathely, the capital of the Province of Vas and a place of several episodes in Hungarian history. In fact, it is the oldest town in Hungary, dating back to Roman times, where the imperial residence was located. Over the centuries, the city had its impact on the various uprisings that took place in the country. In the 20th century, Szombathely increased its economic, industrial and cultural potential and once again became a city of great renown.
You can start your visit to Szombathely with a visit to Szegedy Castle, built around 1820 in the Baroque style. Its natural garden stands out and requires special maintenance for its preservation. The interior is beautifully decorated and has a number of objects from the 19th century period that are worth seeing, along with a magnificent landscape outside.
The Szombathely Arboretum is a botanical garden with a collection of unique trees from temperate and cold zones. The garden was started at the end of the 19th century and its management began in the middle of the 20th century. In the months of May it is a must-see to contemplate the visual wonder of the rhododendrons in bloom.
Behind the city’s cathedral is the Open-Air Archaeological Museum, also known as the Garden of Ruins, where you can find buildings dating from the 1st to 4th centuries AD. Among these palace ruins resided the emperors Constantine the Great, Constantine II, Constantius or Valentinian.
The famous Savaria Carnival, one of the most popular in Hungary, is held in August. Thousands of people flock to enjoy the four days of the carnival, during which the thousands of years of history of the city of Szombathely are evoked. And the most awaited moment is the parade-procession that takes place in the streets of the city. Artists, musicians, fire-eaters and warriors of different armies make this parade an unforgettable spectacle of colour and music.
And there are even more remains of the Roman Empire’s passage through these lands. The Iseum, the ancient sanctuary built for the goddess Isis, has been extraordinarily renovated and offers a peculiar, eerily beautiful open-air venue for operas and plays during the summer. In the Ruin Garden, there are still traces of a shrine for Mercurius and an eight-angled bath.
Hévíz
Hungary is also known as the Land of Spas. In addition to the lakes of Egerszalók and Miskolctapolca (both in the east of the country), there is perhaps the best known, Lake Hévíz, located on the northern slopes of Keszthely Mountain in the centre of the city. Thanks to constant movement, the water temperature in the world’s largest biologically active natural thermal lake is pleasant all year round, allowing bathing in all seasons. The water temperature is 23-25 °C in winter, and can rise to 36-38 °C in summer.
The flow of the water from left to right, as well as from the bottom upwards, has a massaging effect on bathers. In winter, the condensed steam forms a layer on the surface of the lake, creating a natural inhalation. This layer prevents the water from cooling down and inhaling it rejuvenates the exhausted vocal cords. The turquoise water of the lake has a complex healing effect, and its beauty is also pleasing to the weary mind and soul. Visitors swim alongside the aquatic fauna, water lilies floating on the surface, fish, pond turtles, ducks and swans.
The lake was formed in the same period as Lake Balaton. Its present source emerged 20000-22000 years ago. Various types of water lilies grow here: the white European water lily is native to the region, while the purple water lily was introduced from India 100 years ago. Thanks to the abundant water supply, the 4.4-hectare lake – with a depth of 38 metres – replenishes its water completely every three days.
Lake Balaton
Located less than 100 kilometres from the Hungarian capital, Lake Balaton is the largest lake in Central Europe and one of the largest freshwater lakes in Europe. With its pleasant surrounding towns and villages and diverse attractions, this lake holds many surprises even for those who know the region well. The picturesque Balaton Highlands, castle ruins nestled among the rolling hills, winding roads, charming natural stone buildings and country houses surrounded by vineyards captivate visitors, as well as hikers, sports enthusiasts and those in search of breathtaking views.
The average water temperature is 25 °C, which makes bathing in its waters very pleasant. Other tourist attractions include boating, fishing and other water sports, as well as visits to the surrounding countryside and hills; there are vineyards in the northern area and nightlife is more developed on the southern shore.
Veszprém
According to legend, Veszprém, one of the oldest towns in Hungary, was founded on seven hills. On one of them, the castle hill, is where the main sights of the city are concentrated. It is known as the City of Queens since all the queens of Hungary were crowned in St. Michael’s Cathedral. Also in Veszprém important events in the history of Hungary took place, such as the victory in 997 of Stephen I (first king of Hungary) after inheriting his father’s throne against his relative Cupan who tried to overthrow him.
Next year, it will be one of the three Cultural Capitals of Europe, together with Timisoara (Romania) and Elausis (Greece). Veszprém is a small city of around 60,000 inhabitants, 110 kilometres from Budapest and very close to Lake Balaton, which makes it a very interesting city to escape to and learn about its history and heritage during a trip to Hungary.
The best place to start a visit to the city is Óváros Tér, the Old Town Square and the heart of the city, where the tourist office is located. The first thing that catches the eye is the Town Hall building, built in 1857, although the Casa Posa, with its striking yellow façade, also stands out. It is now a library, but in the past it was a residence of the Cistercian Order.
Veszprém Castle was built in the 15th century and became one of the most important defensive bastions in Hungary. It stands on one of the seven hills on which the city was founded and is its emblem. During World War II it was a residential palace, which undoubtedly helped make it one of the few castles to survive the conflict. The castle is structured around Vár Street, which is accessed through the Heroes’ Gate. This monument commemorates the Hungarian victims of the First World War and inside there is a small exhibition on the heroes of the war.
